Dodging the potholes in Manado city sight-seeing

Travelers headed to North Sulawesi rarely include more than a day on their itinerary for the hot, sticky provincial capital.

With underwater delights beckoning at nearby Bunaken island, there really is not much point in staying put in Manado, even if the travel books wax on about it being a pleasant little town nestled by the bay (maybe that was the case 10 years ago).

Manado today is showing the same ills -- unrelenting development coupled with erratic infrastructure maintenance -- that have turned once attractive Indonesian towns and cities into frustrating encounters with traffic jams and pothole-laden sidewalks.

But forces of nature made it impossible to make it out to Bunaken during a recent trip (and we heard reports that some of those who did get to the marine park were forced to spend a couple of days waiting for calmer seas before making it back to Manado).

Making the best of a bad situation, we took a trip around town and nearby areas to find out what to do in Manado when you are left high and dry.

Getting There: Located on the northernmost tip of the jigsaw puzzle piece that is Sulawesi, Manado is a mighty distance from Jakarta. But it is now cheaper to fly to the city than ever before, at a relative bargain price of about Rp 1 million return (including Mandala, Bouraq and Batavia airlines). This will probably include a short stopover, although Garuda does fly non-stop.

Accommodations:Manado has it all, from simple homestays to ritzy (literally) accommodations. A drive around the city shows a sampling of them all, from tiny holes in the wall, sprawling family-style hotels that have seen better days to the Ritzy, formerly managed by Novotel, which is located on the famed boulevard overlooking the bay. The latter looks good from the outside, and it boasts all the standard swimming pool-cavernous lobby-buffet dinner offerings of a star-hotel, if that is what you came all the way from Jakarta to experience.

Seeking a more rustic experience? Head to Molas, a beautiful area overlooking Bunaken. For diving, a friend is a devout advocate of the Nusantara Diving Center, having returned there several times over the last 10 years. The center offers a variety of diving courses and instruction for different levels.

There are several other dive centers located in the area, including one at the luxurious Hotel Santika Manado further up the road. This is much more of a full-on resort experience, with a swimming pool, good coffee shop (unfortunately, the other one looking out to sea is closed but you can still order from its menu) and cottage-style accommodation. But there is no beach to speak of (it's all mangroves) and a trip to Bunaken from here costs a steep Rp 500,000.

Getting out to Molas is expensive by taxi from Manado (we bargained to about Rp 35,000 as the driver wouldn't use the meter) but it's better to take public transportation. Ask for directions to Jl. Hasanuddin, where you can take vans up to Molas from the small market area. That will set you back about Rp 1,500, with Santika the last stop on the journey. It's cramped, you will be treated to an earful of simpering ballads but the people are helpful and friendly.

Sights: Everybody calls Jl. Pierre Tendean the ""Boulevard"", and it must have been something way back when. Now, with a megamall being built along the shore, the street resembles nothing more than a vast construction site. Not attractive by any means, with an eyeful of laundry hanging over corrugated iron fences and endless traffic jams caused by the light blue mikrolet (public minivans). It's said that the best time to visit is early evening to catch the sunset and avoid the traffic jams.

Sitting somewhat incongruously smack in the center of bustling downtown is the 19th century Ban Hian Kiong Buddhist Confucian temple on Jl. Panjaitan. You can go inside, but be discreet and respectful of the worshipers, especially if you want to take photos. It is supposed to have a couple of old cannons on its roof, but we did not make it up to the top.

Right across the street is Warung Ventje I, which sells a selection of local snacks, from bagea (a type of hard cookie made from sago, palm sugar, coconut milk and kenari nuts), candied nutmeg and a delicious nut brittle. Bargain for the best price or buy snacks from the special North Sulawesi snack section at Matahari, also in downtown.

Eats:Locals will tell you to go to ""Samrat"", as in Jl. Sam Ratulangi, for the best ayam bakar rica-rica (grilled chicken basted in Manado chili sauce). After spending a good 20 minutes walking back and forth looking for Tinoor Jaya restaurant (apparently it's under renovation), we settled for another restaurant, Gracia, on the same street.

The grilled chicken and sauteed vegetables in turmeric were tasty, but we gave a wide berth to some of the more exotic meats on the menu (especially with a despondent looking pooch sitting outside).

Although Manado is an overwhelmingly Christian town, restaurants are very accommodating when it comes to diners who do not partake of the local fare. There are also places serving halal (conforming to Muslim dietary proscriptions), including several smalls sidewalk eateries near the end of the road from Molas to Jl. Hasanuddin.

A more scenic spot to dine is on the winding road up to Tomohon in Tinoor, the area's own equivalent of Puncak in West Java. It's a refreshing drive up into the hills, with small restaurants clinging to the side of the road and providing a stunning view of forests and Manado Bay in the distance. We settled on Tinoor Jaya to try its dishes after missing out on its branch in Manado town.

We once again gave a miss to what the waitress termed ""batman"", but tucked into some very good chicken, fish and vegetables in the small but clean eatery (Rp 23,000 for two).

Of course, any culinary stopover in Manado must include seafood. The place to go is Malalayang on the road to Tasik Ria beach, with many restaurants offering the freshest catch of the day.

The Jakarta Post, Jakarta